hiding power cable and hdmi cable for wall-mounted tv
The plan is to install a new power outlet behind the TV and install 2 (
Not sure what they are officially called)
Media box, let me through the HDMI cable (
Or any other assembly cable)
Through the wall.
Tools and supplies in photos.
Disclaimer: This instruction relates, among other things, to fiddling with wires on the wall.
I\'m not an electrician.
I made a lot of light fixtures and ceiling fans myself, but I \'ve never had a professional check anything.
While everything runs as expected after completion, I may have done something wrong.
Please feel free to correct me or add a hint to someone else in the comments below.
The media box type I am using is the only type I can find locally, they are only white.
I don\'t want any white on the back of the TV, I think it catches the eye when watching from a certain angle.
I bought some Valspar plastic paint, glossy black.
I separate the panels on the media box, tape the bristles down and follow the instructions on the can (
Wait 24 hours to fully heal, so this must be done in advance).
The plastic has a slight texture so the paint shows this texture, but I don\'t mind because it\'s basically hidden outside of the field of view.
It\'s easy to polish it down if I want a very smooth look.
During the installation there were any scratches in the paint and I touched it with a black sharp.
The price is cheap, but again, it hides most of it out of view.
Also, to be ready, before removing the TV from the stand, I recorded the place where the TV corner was attached to the wall.
This allows me to quickly see where the edge of the TV is without having to make more measurements after the TV has been removed.
Not seen in the photo, I also marked the position of the hook on the TV on the stand (low-
Technical method of applying fingers in accumulated dust).
With these reference points, it is easy to find the best place to place the media box, so the HDMI cable will be connected directly from the wall to the required input port on the back of the TV.
I also marked the best location for the power outlet.
I know my TV is leaning forward and it takes a few inches of space once the power plug is plugged in, so I put it above the bracket and there is plenty of space there.
If the plug needs more space, you can also use an embedded power outlet.
First of all, I made the power socket.
Make sure everyone knows you\'re going to cut off some power or everyone crashes when their Internet and/or TV doesn\'t work.
Be sure to flip the circuit breaker and cut the power off to the right position.
You probably won\'t be scared, but it\'s not fun. I use my tried-and-
The real way to plug in the work light in the socket I intend to use and make sure that when the breaker is flipped it turns off.
I was lucky to have a power outlet under the TV.
My plan is to install a new socket right above it, connect the romex cable to the pre-existing socket and connect it to that socket (
Is this series? ).
I consulted some people who I thought knew the problem better than I did and they said it was OK.
I removed the pre-existing socket from the wall and became familiar with the line.
This special socket has a wall switch that controls the socket (
The socket/switch is indicated by the red line for the lamp)
, And the lower socket has a constant power (
Represented by the usual black line).
I want to connect my new socket to a constant power supply so the wall switch does not turn off my TV.
I also pry open the socket with a screwdriver to install a repair hole cover on the top of the metal box.
I marked my location for the new socket using the new \"old building power box (
Step 1 White in the picture above)
As a guide to size and cut holes.
Save the piece you cut, don\'t let it fall to the wall, it\'s always good on hand if you make a mistake and need to be patched on the wall.
Then I used the fish belt to bring the romex cable through the wall and through the entrance hole at the top of the box, make sure to pass through something extra to prevent it from falling back to the wall as soon as it was cut.
I cut off the bottom of the cable and peel off the insulation and paper lining (
The blade is easy to open and cut outer insulation)
Separate 3 lines (
Black, white, bare ground)
And peel off about 1.
5 \"insulated from each using wire cutting machine \"(
Wire stripping pliers can also).
I bend a hook shape into each one with a needle nose clamp so that they can be easily attached to the screws on the socket.
I connect each wire to the corresponding position in the lower part of the socket.
The old black line was pushed to a hole in the exit, so I wrapped the new black line around the screw next to that hole and tightened it.
I did the same thing with white lines and ground (
See picture for details).
I tightened each screw, then I pushed all the screws into the metal box, screwed the old socket back into place, and screwed the panel back into place.
On the new cartridge, I removed the label covering the access hole at the bottom and crossed the upper end of the romex cable.
After sliding the box into the wall and verifying that the hole size is appropriate, I tightened the two screws mounted on the wall.
This raised two wings at the back, took them to the back of the thin rock and tightened it to the wall.
I cut romex into length and peel off the insulation and separate the wires as before.
Again, I bend the wire with a needle nose clamp to make it easy to connect to the screw.
I fix each wire in the right place and tighten the screws.
I pushed the new socket into its box, connected it with two screws in the package, and connected the new panel with the screws in the package.
I have my son look at any spark/flame/sound (
\"Shout out as loud as possible if you see/hear anything \")
I ran downstairs and reopened the breaker.
The breaker didn\'t trip and my son didn\'t scream either so it was good.
I went back upstairs and tested each outlet with a light.
Both new outlets are working and they are not off when I flip the wall switch.
The old socket still works, and the above socket is turned off with a wall switch as needed. Huzzah!
After happy with the success of the power outlet, I moved to the media box.
Looking at the back of the TV, as well as the tape marks on the wall, I determined the best location for the media box.
The HDMI cable I use is very thick and not very flexible, so I want a media box so that the HDMI cable can come out directly from the wall and go directly to the input needed on the back of the TV.
After marking my position, I raised the new \"old building low pressure box\" and marked 4 holes for the cutting guide. I cut the hole.
I then connect the cartridge by putting the cartridge in the hole, verifying that it is appropriate, and tightening the two screws.
For the lower media box, I want it to be close to the center (
As much as possible, the same height as the power outlet and surround sound outlet.
Be careful not to place it in a position that will cause the cable to pass through the bolt (
Not as close to the center as I wish, but still good)
, I marked its position and did the same process of marking holes and cutting.
I installed the voltage box there in the same way as before.
So far I\'m very hungry and ready to finish, so I don\'t have that many photos, but they\'re not really needed.
I also have a problem and I will discuss it at the end.
I pulled the HDMI cable over with a fish belt.
I connected the media box, installed the TV and verified that the HDMI cable was indeed aligned with the media box.
Before installing the TV, I tidied up a few laps of the power cord and then zipped
Tie it up so that the extra stuff doesn\'t hang under the TV.
I tilted the TV forward (
Expected final rest location)
, And plug the power cord into the new socket.
Success, more success!
I did not discuss this issue in the rest of the structure because I don\'t think it is a common issue.
I know my previous project was to install the TV on the wall and use surround sound where my wall is nailed.
What I don\'t know, however, is a metal band that extends diagonally along the wall.
According to my motherin-
Building the house\'s law is an optional add-on during construction, helping to stabilize the walls during construction, and/or adding additional strength in the same way as a hurricane strap (
They tied the raf of the roof to the studs nail on the wall).
The wall is 15 feet high so the extra straps are understandable.
When I cut holes for my lower media box, I hit this directly.
In my hunger and frustration, I considered cutting the metal for a while but decided not to cut it.
I was able to move my hole a little without causing extra damage, but the straps covered about half of the holes.
I think I can make it work.
I had to trim one of the box tags off a bit, but it still fits well.
Also, the back of the media box is a bit prominent (
Looks like it\'s to help organize multiple cables)
So I fixed it, too.
The insulation of the HDMI cable is also very thick and there is a mesh sheath so I am not worried that it will come into contact with a metal strap without a sharp edge.
I said and did it again. The effect is very good!
But before \"all said and done\", I tried to guide the fish from the top hole to the bottom hole.
Somehow, I\'m really not sure, I must have hooked the power cord that extends horizontally to the wall.
The small curved part at the end of the fish tape is very tight, so I\'m not sure how it is easily connected to the power cord.
After trying all sorts of moves, after a lot of frustration, I was determined to cut off the fish belt and leave about 3\' on the wall \'. Oh well.
With the end of the fish belt now a sharp, pointed nub, I don\'t have to worry anymore about it being caught by anything, but it also makes it useless for connecting wires that need to be fished
I bent it into a terrible hook and it worked very well.
But given how much I did for the first time, including surround sound, media box and power outlet, I was surprised that it was the only problem I had.
I thank you for this!