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How to Make a Transparent Audio Reference XL Speaker Cable

by:Taifeng Electronics     2020-02-20
For my first project on structures, I think I will start with what I think is the coolest DIY projectEnd audio lovers.
This Instructure will show you how to make a pair of transparent audio reference XL speaker cables for less than $12,500 for $200.
My project is based on the schematic I found on the Internet, as well as photos and x-
Light inside the transparent audio Network Box (
See step 10 for everything I found).
Here are the parts you need: a 20-foot black corrugated split tube. -$23.
8812/4 copper speaker wire around high stock, $20-11.
Woven nylon pipe in black, 20 feet. -$19.
00 Plastic Engineering box, 2 ea-$7.
9414 copper wire, 10 ft-$7.
59 gold plated brass spades, 8 ea-$6. 00 (
I found it on eBay)1” black heat-
Shrink tube 2 feet. – $6. 96 \"Black hot-
Shrink tube for $4-11. 12½” red heat-
Shrink tube for $4-11.
121000 picofarad capacitor, 2 ea-$2. 1231.
7 ohm resistance, 2 ea-$1.
15 \"oak piles, 4 \"-$35. 00 (for 36” dowel)
Black hot glue stick for $3 EA-3. 94Flux-
Core welding, 1 roll-$29. 97Total: $176.
63 here are the tools you need: PliersPhillips screwdriverHot glue gunSoldering ironHeat gun (or hair dryer)
Wire cuttersWire adhesive tape (
I used a lot to help me stabilize things when I was doing things)
Razor knife or XactoI will explain how to make a wire.
To make a pair, just double the instructions (obviously). :)
First, cut off the 10 feet long 12/4 wire and remove it from the coat.
Since you don\'t need this jacket at all, you can throw it away.
Use masking tape to ensure that the distortion of the cable remains the same.
Next, peel the ends of all the wires back to about three quarters of inches.
I have red, white, black and green coated wires in my case.
You will use two wires for each \"leg\" of the cable.
So, twist the ends of the red and white wires together.
Do the same for black and green.
Red/White is positive leg and Black/Green is negative leg.
Once you twist them together, tin them at the end, so that they remain in this state when you process the cables.
Next, find the center of the wire (
5 feet from both sides)
Cut your legs.
Peel back the insulation that has just been cut, combine the wires, and wrap it up as you just did to the end.
This central clip is the place to add one of Transparent\'s \"networks\" later.
\"Leave a Tailfeng lan cable for a minute and pick up your network box.
Plastic Engineering boxes can be purchased in a radio shed.
I chose a five-foot box. 75\" by 2. 75\" by 2\".
You can make it a little smaller, but these will give you enough space to work inside.
Mark the center point at the end of the box.
Then drill a hole at each end so your cable can go through the box.
The hole should be slightly less than 1/2.
I drilled a pilot hole and then fine-tuned the hole with the \"step drill bit.
It is only necessary to use a small section of bellows to test if your hole is properly sized.
The tubing should fit closely.
Transparent\'s main \"network\" is just an inductor that measures 2.
5 miniature henna soldered on the cable\'s straight leg path.
To make an inductor, take a 2 inch-long oak pin and wrap the solid copper wire No. 14 tightly around the pin.
To get the exact 2.
You need something more complicated than a multimeter.
I went to my friend\'s shop and measured mine with his lcrmeter.
Side note: My point is that you don\'t have to be too precise because of a 2.
5 micro Henry inductance does not add too much anyway.
When I measured the cable without soldering the inductor, it measured 3 micro Henries itself.
So, there is no inductor if I want to add 2.
All I need to do is stretch the cable about 8 feet.
Go back to instructions anyway.
I find that I always get 2 if I wrap it tightly. 35 to 2.
Miniature henna in 55 18 laps.
I think it\'s a good rule of thumb if you don\'t have a sophisticated instrument to measure the inductor.
Once you are satisfied with your inductor, fix it around the pin using masking tape.
Tin at the end so it is easy to Weld later.
All you have to do here is weld the inductor to the front of the cable and then fish the cable through the holes in the box.
It\'s easy to fish without a jacket on the wire, and if you do, you don\'t risk burning the box with a soldering iron.
Now that you have finished your main network, you can add some dressing to your cable to make it look good and protect it from wear and tear.
Take a 5 feet corrugated split tube and wrap it around the cable on one side of the network box.
Then, bring your Nylon braid and slide over the tube.
Once it is at the end of the pipe next to your web box, gently work two layers through the holes in the box.
Once you have them in the box, use a zip tie and hot glue to prevent them from slipping out again.
I like to use black hot glue because it has a lower melting point, which makes it more liquid than standard stuff.
This way, you can work around the cable to make sure it fills in any gaps between your braids and the holes in the box.
Repeat the process on the other side of the cable.
You may not know this, but the output of the transparent reference XL speaker cable has another smaller network.
It consists of 1000 pF capacitors and 31. 7 ohm resistor.
All you do here is weld the lid and the resistor together.
The soldering iron is then used to melt the insulation material on the positive and negative poles of the cable from the output 12 inch.
Using the soldering iron, weld the two wires of each leg together and leave yourself a small \"knob\" to weld the network.
The capacitor is welded to the negative leg and the resistance is welded to the positive leg.
Once the solder cools, slide a larger piece of heat
Shrink the pipe through the network and heat it with a hot gun or a hair dryer.
This will simply protect the network.
To get this done without damaging the pipes and nylon braids, I just moved them back a little so they don\'t get in the way.
At this point, it is better to pick up the pencil and draw an arrow in the main network box that represents the signal flow.
As I said before, the small R/C network we do should be connected to the output so that the cable is oriented.
Get your spades to the end of the cable for welding.
I use a table clip to help me finish it easily.
Now, take your little heat
Shrink the tubes and slide them over your spades.
The front should be red and the negative should be black.
Ensure heat-
Contractions overlap to spades.
This will take some stress off and make it look better. Apply heat.
Note, I\'m not hot-
Before I weld on the spades, shrink first.
I do this because it takes a long time to heat the spades with a soldering iron, which causes a fever of copper in the wires.
This may cause the pipe to shrink before you are ready.
So, buy some spades that are small enough to slide the pipes.
Next, take a larger black tubing (about 4 inches)
And shrink it to the tail of the corrugated/woven tube.
Heat it up, but be careful because the nylon braid burns if it\'s too hot.
Repeat this process on both sides of the cable.
Now all you have to do is connect the lid to the main network box.
I took a sharpie and wrote \"in\" and \"out\" at the bottom of the box so I don\'t forget which way to connect the cable.
I will do something more permanent later.
I haven\'t done that yet, but you might want to fill your web box with hot glue.
I was told that this would make the inductor not as big as vibration (
Noise caused by vibration).
It will also make the web boxes heavier and make them better to lie on the ground.
To burn in the Tailfeng lan cable, just connect them to your rig and let it play for a few days.
This may speed up the process if you have a cable cooker.
I hope you find this project as interesting as I do.
I \'ve had them connect to my system for a few weeks and they sound great.
You might ask yourself where I got the plan to build them.
Well, there are pictures of the open transparent cable all over the Internet.
One of the sites that posted these photos has a design schematic based on what the person measured when he took apart the cable.
I will attach the photo I found to the next step in this note.
While this may not be completely repetitive, I will match my cable with the real transparent cable any day of the week.
Especially when you think they cost less than 2% of the original cost. . .
Sounds great!
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